Embracing knits: a guide for those tired of stiff fabrics
Ah, knits! The mere mention of the word is enough to scare off some sewists. “It slips, it stretches, it loses its shape…” We hear all sorts of conflicting things.
Yet, knit fabric is a powerful ally for anyone wanting to sew comfortable, modern, and wearable everyday clothes.
Before you close your drawer and run back to your poplin, take two minutes to understand what’s really behind the word.
Unlike woven fabrics, knits are—as the name suggests—knitted. The principle is the same as a sweater, but in a finer and often more fluid version.
Instead of crossing perpendicular threads, loops are formed, giving the fabric its famous elasticity. As a result, knit fabric hugs your curves, moves with your body, and offers unparalleled comfort.
In comparison, woven fabric is the classic choice: cotton, poplin, twill, satin… Here, the threads are crossed at right angles, resulting in a stiffer, more stable fabric. It’s perfect for shirts, structured jackets, or straight-leg trousers. But it’s also less forgiving: being off by just a centimeter, and you’ll quickly feel constricted.
Knit fabric, on the other hand, allows for some leeway. It forgives a minor cutting error or a slightly imprecise seam. Everyone has a knit t-shirt in their wardrobe—often not of great quality—that twists after a few washes or where the side seam ends up across the stomach.
When well-chosen and well-sewn, knit fabric is a joy to wear and to sew.
Jersey is undoubtedly the best-known knit fabric. It can be 100% cotton or blended with elastane or viscose for added stretch and drape. Lightweight and soft, it’s perfect for tops, casual dresses, or underwear.
Interlock is a double-sided jersey. It is made of two interlocking layers of knit, making it thicker and more stable than single jersey. It hardly curls at the edges, making it easier to cut and handle. It has a crisper, more structured drape. It’s used for dressier t-shirts, straight dresses, or cozy pajamas.
Milano knit is denser and more tightly knit. It retains the stretch inherent to knits while offering a more sophisticated look. It’s found in bodycon dresses, pencil or A-line skirts, and even unlined soft jackets. With it, you can achieve a “chic” style while remaining comfortable.
Finally, mesh is an openwork technical knit, widely used in lingerie, sportswear, or breathable panels. It offers transparency and lightness, allowing for layering and more technical or graphic effects.
Sewing knits also means adapting to their stretch. We often talk about the stretch percentage when choosing a suitable fabric: less than 20% for a more stable knit, around 20% to 40% for a classic t-shirt, and higher for leggings or lingerie. For sewing, a serger is the ideal machine: it assembles, finishes the edges, and maintains the fabric’s elasticity. However, a standard sewing machine can definitely do the job, provided you use a stretch stitch (a narrow zigzag or a lightning stitch).
You shouldn’t pull on the fabric while sewing, or you’ll end up with wavy necklines or rippled hems. It’s better to let the machine do the work!
Knit fabric isn’t just a technical material; it’s a state of mind. It invites flexibility, comfort, and freedom of movement. It allows you to make mistakes, to be bold, and to start over. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not a material reserved for “pros.” In fact, it’s an excellent teacher: it teaches you to listen to the fabric, anticipate movement, and accept imperfection.
Sewing knits means accepting that everything won’t always be perfect to the millimeter. And that’s what vibrant, creative sewing is all about. Knits are everywhere, already in our closets. They make you want to dive in, take a chance, and create clothes that move with you instead of restricting you.
So, why wait? Grab that jersey sitting in a drawer, get out your serger (or sewing machine), and give it a go. Even if the first attempt isn’t perfect, you’ll have learned something, and more importantly, you’ll have made progress.
Daring to sew with knits is about reconciling with your body, with movement, and with the idea that a garment isn’t armor, but an everyday companion.
